The Saint Fanourios – Skoumbarda walking route is not simply a recreational walk, but a journey through the island’s wartime history. The ruined observation posts, underground tunnels, and fortifications stand as silent witnesses to a turbulent past, while the open landscape and the scent of wild herbs offer an experience that blends history, nature, and exploration.
Essential Information
Length: ~5 km
Duration: ~1.5-2 hours depending on the stops
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Start & End Point: Agios Fanourios, Xirokampos & Skoumparda peak. Click here for directions
What to Bring: Comfortable hiking shoes, Water.
Step-by-Step Route
Starting Point: Saint Fanourios
The route begins at the church of Saint Fanourios in Kerkennaos, built in 1960. Saint Fanourios holds a special place in local religious tradition and is associated with the custom of baking “Fanouropita” when something has been lost, asking the saint for help in finding it. This peaceful setting offers a calm start before the ascent toward the mountain.
Ascent to Skoumbarda
The road in front of the church leads toward Mount Skoumbarda. In its initial section the route is gentle, gradually turning into an ascent that allows walkers to become familiar with the landscape. At approximately 1 km, you will find a small chapel on your right, confirming that you are on the correct path. After another 1 km, you will reach a fork, where you should take the path on the right. As you continue, you will at some point notice an old quarry on your left, a sign of past human activity in the area.
As elevation increases, the scenery changes character. Low vegetation and aromatic herbs such as thyme, and oregano dominate the landscape, accompanying the walker throughout the ascent.
Skoumbarda Summit – Observation Post (322 m)
The summit of Skoumbarda, at an altitude of 322 meters, clearly reveals the strategic importance of the location during the 20th century. Its position allowed full control of surrounding sea routes and the wider area, which led to the construction of extensive military installations.
Before World War II, underground tunnels, guard posts, and observation positions were built by the British, mainly carved into the rock for protection and concealment. During the Italian occupation (1912–1943), these installations were reinforced with permanent concrete structures, including machine-gun posts and San Giorgio–type artillery batteries. The underground tunnels were used for protection, ammunition storage, and the safe movement of personnel.
The observation post at the summit functioned as a central point for gathering and transmitting information, initially through visual signals and later via wireless communication. The presence of the modern telecommunications tower highlights the long-standing importance of this location for surveillance and communication.
Route Along the Military Installations
From the summit, the route continues along the remains of the military installations. The descent is steep in places and requires attention. Along the way, scattered traces of Italian and earlier British fortifications can be seen, integrated into the natural terrain of the mountain.
The walker gains the feeling of a short mountain crossing, where the natural landscape coexists with strong reminders of recent history.
Character of the Route
The Saint Fanourios – Skoumbarda walking route is not simply a recreational walk, but a journey through the island’s wartime history. The ruined observation posts, underground tunnels, and fortifications stand as silent witnesses to a turbulent past, while the open landscape and the scent of wild herbs offer an experience that blends history, nature, and exploration.
Get ready for an unforgettable adventure through Leros’ hidden gems!
We’d love to hear about your experience! If you try this route, share your photos and thoughts on our Facebook group while in Leros and connect with fellow hikers who have explored this incredible trail.
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